COLORFUL RARA, BLACK AND WHITE MUGU

To reach Rara, the largest lake of Nepal, trekkers usually go via Jumla passing through Ghurchi lekh. But, we trekked through Kolti (Bajura)-Ratopani section. This route receives about 70-80 foreign tourists annually. Not so popular among the trekkers, the route comes in use usually when the Talcha airport (Mugu) goes out of operation. Visitors fly to Kolti airport (Bajura) and start their trek.

We drove to Dhangadi from Kathmandu. Here, we took another bus to Baitalmaidi and then to Tipada (Bajura). Shortly after, our weeklong trek kicked off.

Tipada, Bajura

Budhiganga river provided us a calm company till we reached Martadi, the headquarter of Bajura. We took very little interest in inspecting the whats and hows of Bajura as we were entirely occupied by the charm of Rara. At Dhamkane, we hit upon some village delicacies; the lekali (hilly) potatoes, red rice and bread (made of wheat and millet flour) left pleasant imprints on us.

As we advanced further, the trip took us closer to more of the village components. From meeting women in their traditional attire to having lunch with local fish from Karnali river at Arthagechaur, we were filled with strange ecstasy.

Women in traditional attire, Pandusen, Bajura

The night stay at Kolti was an uninvited episode of our Bajura adventure. We were irritated by the attack of bed bugs the whole night!

The road turned exciting yet risky near Boldhik. Upon crossing a suspension bridge over Karnali river, we landed to Sukadhik of Mugu district. Right here, drizzle fell on us for a short while, as if to welcome us to Mugu! We left the Karnali river and soon were following Khatyar khola, drained from the western part of Rara. With the picture of Rara almost glued to our mind, we kept going. Dense forest of walnuts and silver fir appeared from Baunpani. 

A small section of Khatyar khola, drained from lake Rara

We carried on with the fantasy of being by the side of Rara. Soon we passed a small village of about 20 houses.  After a while, we noticed a small stream with stagnant water. Elevated at the top of excitement, all of us ran towards it. In no time, everyone had figured out, it was what we had come for!

The first view of lake Rara

All of us were surrounded by an instant fascination upon getting the view of  Rara (2990 m asl). Located on the north slope of Ghurchi lekh (4086 m) and confined from the north by another lower ridge of 3300 m, Rara was lying serene and ripples were showcasing their dance on it time and again. Pristine pine forest bordered it and majestic peaks adorned it at the backdrop (Chuchemara (4039 m) on the southern side and Ruma Kand (3731 m) & Malika Kand (3444 m) on the northern side). Its natural setting kept us mesmerized. The dramatic change of color in the lake was wonderful to keep an eye on. From light blue in the morning, the lake gradually turned to dark blue in the evening. It appeared as if a painter was adding color to it. Exciting our nerves with its cool breeze, Rara offered us a delightful time; we were love struck by its young beauty. However, we were deprived of boating on the lake. Absence of officials at headquarter of Rara national park prevented us from enjoying it (A permission letter from the national park is required for it).

Rara harbors three species of endemic fish (snow trouts/ashla). The lake is also popular as an excellent site for watching migratory birds. Similarly, Rara national park (106 sq Km) boasts of having endangered species of mammals like musk deer and red panda. A concessionaire (Danphe Guest House) located next to the park headquarter provides basic lodging and food. Camp site is available nearby. For researchers and scholars, the park has built a separate guest house, but it does not look operational.

A red panda found dead in Rara national park

Behind the limelight

At Baunpani, we met a woman preparing locally brewed alcohol. As discussion progressed, it was revealed that people in Mugu use more grains for making alcohol than they consume as food. In a district where annual production would hardly suffice for 3 to 6 months for most of the households, it’s an irony. To add to the misery, there is no road network available (road network has reached the headquarter, Gamgadhi from Jumla, on the other route), making transportation of food difficult and hence availability of food extremely low. In connection with this shortage of food, the people in Mugu receive 1500 to 2000 metric ton of subsidized food from the government annually. What a pity! Thus, seasonal migration (mostly to India) is very common and is the main way of meeting food shortage.

Locals brewing alcohol from rice

The next morning we met a couple en route to Rara. We inquired the male about the family size of his village. When he made the reply, we were left dumbfounded. He said, ‘Each couple bears more than three children. Inability to bear at least three children will raise question over our manhood and it will be considered a social disrespect’. During the conversation, we were referring to his wife as didi (elder sister). Surprisingly, she was only sixteen; but she appeared to be in her thirties. Lack of proper nutrition and intensive labor had made her appear so old at such a young age!

The main economic activities of people in Mugu are agriculture and livestock farming. Collection of non timber forest products (NTFPs) and their selling is another source of income. Of the income, about 72% is spent on food, giving it a bad fame of a poverty-stricken area. When more than 70% of the income is spent on food related items, it is considered as a condition of chronic poverty. (DDC Mugu, 2054).

The literacy is very low. Although each VDC contains schools, there are very few children who attend schools regularly.

Rara has a huge potential of tourism development. But, lack of adequate communication facilities and poor publicity are hindrances to the promotion of this area. Accommodation facilities are limited. Similarly, uncertainty of flights and high cost involved in in-country travels are considerable problems.

Though Rara national park has preserved thick forest around the lake, extensive deforestation and illegal trade of timber is prevalent near Talcha and Lamachaur (gamgadhi). This often happens with the involvement of locals working as staffs in the national park, as told by a ranger. Since grazing of domestic livestock is usually confined inside the park, the meadows are deteriorating. Similarly, illegal hunting of musk deer and Himalayan black bear is threatening the important fauna in the park.

Livestock grazing inside Rara National Park

The final note

Rara national park can play a significant role in uplifting the living standard of people of Mugu. Till date, the park management seems protection oriented. Time has come for the park to take care of the needs of the local people living around. A proper blend of conservation activities linked to human livelihood, tourism development with effective local participation and improvement in the infrastructures can certainly spark hopes to the gloomy faces of the Mugalis!

naresh.kusi@gmail.com