A SHORT TRIP TO DHORPATAN VALLEY

Dhorpatan Hunting Reserve (DHR), the only hunting reserve in Nepal, is located in western Nepal covering the districts of Rukum, Myagdi and Baglung. Trophy hunters from around the globe have been drawn to DHR, particularly to hunt the charismatic blue sheep.

Controlled hunting can play a significant role in the long-term conservation of wildlife. Similarly, a well-managed hunting tourism can make considerable contribution in the economic development of a country. The realization of these lines drove me to the fascinating terrains of DHR in June-July 2010.

Monsoon is no problem for travelers!

On the final day of my B.Sc. second year pre-board exam, my mind was silently drafting a plan to travel to DHR. Shortly after the final bell rang, I proposed my friend Sanej Prasad Suwal that we go on a trip to DHR. He gave a quick reply, 'Of course. Let's do it!'

We took a bus to Burtibang of Baglung district. The monsoonal rain had triggered landslides at different sections of the road. So, the bus dropped us at Wami, Gulmi district. Having spent hours sitting in the bus, our legs were craving for the walk to kick-off. But the local people suggested us to take a jeep if we were to reach Burtibang the same day. We had limited days to complete the trip. So, we took a jeep at Kharwang of Baglung that was separated from Gulmi by the suspension bridge over the Daram khola. The jeep ride came to a halt at Nwara from where we were supposed to catch another jeep to Bhimgithe. But the jeep showed no sign of coming even after 30 minutes of waiting. So, we advanced on foot. We followed the Badigad river, later called 'Ridi khola' in Gulmi. The river joins the Kaligandaki river further down. By the time we reached Burtibang, darkness had already enveloped the scene.

Burtibang 

We met numerous mule caravans that carried goods to Dhorpatan valley from Burtibang. At Bobang, the picturesque village invited us for a brief stop to have a look at its one-storeyed slate-roofed houses.

Bobang

Rhododendron arboreum and R. campanulatum were still in bloom at some places. It was unusual since these species generally do not retain flowers this long.

Drizzle fell on us time and again; we continued our ascent resting at intervals. When we reached Deurali, our eyes caught sight of the wonderful Dhorpatan valley. 

 Dhorpatan valley as seen fro Deurali

There were numerous horses, mules and buffaloes grazing in the lush green pasture of the valley. The valley was adorned in the multitude of colors by different wild flowers. The Uttarganga river flowed with a complete calmness from the middle of the valley. Tired we were but the cool touch of fogs wiped the tiredness off our body.

Local kids greet us (note the wild flowers)

(Note: Today buses run up to the Dhorpatan valley).

DHR and Trophy Hunting

In general hunters are of three types viz. Poachers, Meat hunters and Trophy hunters. Poachers are infamously known as illegal hunters. The meat hunters take permissions for hunting. But most of them have been found to hunt in excess of the number permitted to hunt. The trophy hunters hunt for entertainment. They have set rules for hunting. Conservation of wildlife habitat is very important for them as hunting activities cannot operate long-term in the absence of proper habitat management. This makes the trophy hunters sensitive towards wildlife conservation.

The trophy hunters have a special fancy for the head and horn of the target animals. Thus, they generally hunt the old and weak adult males. Selective hunting of such males makes way for the newer generation to find their mates. But some trophy hunters are found to be interested in hunting young and smart individuals as they pose greater excitement. This aspect is definitely unfavorable as the young males have a very crucial role in reproduction.

The trophy hunters operate under the rules and regulations set by 'Safari International Club'. One of the most important rules is that the hunters cannot hunt females and their lambs. They should usually target the old and weak adult males.

Adult males of blue sheep

Prior to travelling to DHR, the trophy hunters obtain permission from the Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation (DNPWC). The Ministry of Home Affairs (MoHA) monitors their arms. For every individual animal, they have to issue a separate permission.

The hunting permission expires after 21 days. If the hunters are unable to make a hunt within the time frame, they return. The permission fee is non-refundable.

'Every hunting group is accompanied by a guide from DHR. The guide helps the group in the hunt. S/he is also responsible to inspect if hunting ethics have been violated', told Mr. Arjun Bhusal, the then assistant warden of DHR. Autumn (Sep-Nov) and spring (Feb-Apr) seasons are considered good for hunting expeditions.

At DHR with the then assistant warden

At the DHR head office, my eyes ran through the hunting quota given by Wegge (1976) and Thapa and Karki (2007):

Table 1 Hunting quota for different blocks in DHR

		Hunting block/district
S.N.	Animal	Sundaha (M)	Seng (R)	Dogadi (R)	Ghustung (R)	Barse (B)	Fagune (B)	Surtibang (B)	Total
1.	Blue sheep	4	4	6	4	4	4	0	26
2.	Himalayan tahr	4	2	2	2	2	2	2	16

M= Myagdi, R= Rukum and B= Baglung

Map showing hunting blocks of DHR

Similarly there was a table showing the record of hunts for 2008/9.

Table 2 Hunting record for different blocks in DHR for Sep/Oct 2008 and Apr/May 2009

				Hunting blocks
S.N.	Animal	Sundaha	Seng		Dogadi	Ghustung	Barse	Fagune	Surtibang	Total
1.	Blue sheep	2	0		0	5	9	3	0	19
2.	Himalayan tahr	2	0		0	4	1	3	7	17
3.	Barking deer	0	0		0	1	1	2	1	5
4.	Wild boar	0	0		0	0	2	1	0	3
	Total	4	0		0	10	13	9	8	44

From the table, it is clear that seven Himalayan tahrs were hunted in Surtibang block where the quota is of just two Himalayan tahrs. Similarly, nine blue sheep were hunted in Barse block having quota of only four blue sheep. Both these blocks are located close to the DHR head office at Dhorpatan. On the other hand, there was no record of hunting in the remotely located Seng and Dogadi blocks. If this trend continues, it will certainly have unfavorable consequences in the days to come.

About 2% of the total area of DHR falls under settlement area. Local people are seen to gradually encroach the reserve boundary through slash and burn agriculture. At the same time, the local herders are found to set permanent camps in the alpine pastures during monsoon. Such herders are very likely to take part in illegal hunting of wildlife. Similarly, the Tibetan refugee camp near the DHR head office also imparts pressure on the forest and wildlife of DHR.

A small section of the Tibetan refugee camp

Stranded in a desolate forest

Having taken information from staffs of DHR we planned to return the next day. For the return trip, we thought of taking a different route. We decided to go to Baglung bazzar, the district headquarter of Baglung, to catch a bus to Kathmandu. Two of the DHR staffs were also going to Baglung bazzar. They told us to come to DHR head office at 05:00 the next day. Back at the hotel, the owner told us that he was also going to Baglung bazzar the next day; we were relieved from the pressure of waking up early.

We woke up at 05:00 (did not feel like sleeping late) and went to DHR head office to catch up with the staffs. But they had already left. So, we headed towards Baglung bazzar in the company of our hotel owner.

The return trip

The trail passed through a dense forest. After about three hours, it began to rain. We stopped to put on the raincoats. Our companion however wanted to keep going.

'Guys, catch me ahead, take your time', said he and advanced further without waiting for us. We took about 10 minutes to put on the raincoats and rearrange the gears. Then we took longer steps hoping to meet him some distance ahead.

An hour passed but we could not meet him. In the meantime, we lost the trail. After a few minutes, we rejoined the trail. Another 30 minutes passed and we lost the trail again. This time, our attempt to find the main trail remained unsuccessful for almost an hour.

'Let's get back to Burtibang', we decided to give up. A continued walk of almost 11 hours brought us to Burtibang. Our walk that day had totaled to 16 hours; we were completely exhausted. We quickly ordered dinner and went to bed very early.

Despite the exhaustion I could not sleep well that night due to bed bugs. They gave numerous stitches to my body. Sanej, however, seemed to have no notice of the creatures. He slept with a complete relaxation!

To while away time, I made an imaginative journey back to DHR. I set off my mind to be occupied by the thrills of wildlife that roamed the landscape of DHR.